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---Transcript---To AHA or BHA.. that is the question! And not by Shakespare, but by you the listeners. So today, we’ll talk about acids. They have been long associated with strong, aggressive chemical peels. Especially alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Results have often shown red, flaky skin that requires days of healing.   But as skincare technology has evolved, so has the safety and effectiveness of these acids.Let’s dive in and see what acids can for you and how you should use them. The main purpose of acids is to exfoliate. So why is it important to use acids to exfoliate our skin? Because if you don’t, dead skin build up on the surface of your face and it can lead to premature aging, acne, dark spots, and uneven skin tone and texture. Scientists have estimated that over 24 hours, you lose almost a million skin cells. But even though they die, they still remain on the skin surface. And if not exfoliated or washed away, they mix with sebum, makeup, dirt etc to clog pores and cause milia, acne, and other problemsHuman skin cells can live for about 2-4 weeks, then they die and naturally shed. This entire process can slow down significantly with age. When you exfoliate and get rid of the top layer of dead skin cells, fresh new skin that looks much better shows on the surface. If you’ve used pumice on your feet, you’ve seen the results. You get the same effect on the face when using acids, although not as dramatic of course. And besides the immediate effect, more importantly you keep the skin regeneration process going. That is why exfoliating the skin is an essential part of any skincare routine. But you might be wondering where to start? Which acid is right for my skin? Let's go over the benefits of acids which include: smoothing skin texture, brightening dark spots, unclogging pores, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Now, let’s go over the acids themselves. Alpha Hydroxy Acids have been used for more than 40 years for the treatment of acne, scarring, dark spots, dryness, and wrinkles. AHA’s are molecules that dissolve in water which allows them to penetrate the top layer of skin very rapidly. AHA’s work by forcing exfoliation through overloading the top layer of skin cells causing them basically to die and shed away. Lower concentrations of AHA’s are best for smoothing skin texture and preventing blackheads. Higher concentrations increase exfoliation of dead skin cells and stimulate collagen to fight fine lines and wrinkles. You certainly have heard of the most common alpha hydroxy acids. By the way people also call them “fruit acids” because most are naturally found in fruits:Glycolic Acid...which can be found in sugarcane extract... it is the most widely used AHA. It is effective on mild acne and dark spots from sun damage. Glycolic acid studies were done at concentrations of 20-70% where it’s shown to be effective. The higher the concentration and the lower the pH level, the more peeling you get. But keep in mind effectiveness can be achieved by using it less frequent at high concentrations. That’s the acid peels you do when you see an esthetician. Or you can get results by frequently using lower dosage. With products you use at home. It really depends on what you want to do. I’m personally always in favor of the second method. Same with exercise, I’d rather do something every day even if it’s 15 minutes than workout twice a week for an hour.Next, Lactic Acid...it’s considered to be the mildest AHA...it can be found in sour milk, tomato juice, beer, and wine. It will gently exfoliate really well dry, dehydrated, and sensitized skin. A clinical study published in the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology tested it at 12%. Participants used it  twice daily for 3 months. It resulted in better skin firmness and improvement in the appearance of lines and wrinkles. I am a big fan of lactic. It’s great to start with if you’re thinking about acids. And also great for daily use.And some of the more exotic ones…Tartaric Acid...is found in grapes and tamarind. It is also a great antioxidant and estheticians like it for treating sun damage and acne.Malic Acid...derived from apples and pears, this acid can moisturize the skin in addition to exfoliating it.Mandelic Acid...is derived from almonds. It is great for sensitive skin types because it does not penetrate the skin as deeply decreasing the chance of irritation. Now moving to our second category...beta hydroxy acid. You will really only find one lone acid that makes up this category...that is salicylic acid. Salicylic acid dissolves in oil, so it’s different in that way than the AHAs. It is commonly used to treat acne and problem skin because of its power to break through oil to clean out individual pores. Because of this power, salicylic acid can also penetrate deeper into the skin. There are some studies saying that salicylic acid has been used to treat various skin issues for more than 2,000 years. People were using willow bark, which is a source of salicylic back in those days. So how about “tried and true”?The scientists are still studying how exactly it works, but they know it breaks down the “glue” that bonds skin dead cells together causing them to fall off faster. Salicylic acid is also antibacterial and anti-inflammatory which makes it ideal to treat acne. There are so many studies showing the benefit of salicylic. For problem skin, it’s shown to deliver benefits from 0.5% to 10%. Light to moderate chemical peels have shown effectiveness at 20-30%, and strong peels at 50% are shown to work for dark spots and acne scars.Same comment here - you can use more frequently at a lower percent, or less frequently at a higher percent to get the benefit. Just a bit of caution though...salicylic acid in higher concentrations can be drying so as always, listen to your skin. Now that you know what AHAs and BHAs are, how can you incorporate them into your skincare routine?  It’s easy...here are some tips:Start “low a slow”... start with a single product with the lowest percentage of acid and add to your routine gradually... Know the signs...a tingling sensation is normal as the acid is penetrating and stimulating the skin. But if your skin starts to sting or turn red, then use a lower percentage only a couple of times per week. If for some reason you cannot tolerate the sensation, you need to neutralize the acid. Washing your face with water will do the job for the most part. For a stronger neutralizer, you can mix water and baking soda - it makes for high pH solution that will counterbalance the low pH of the acidProtect yourself...because of their exfoliating nature...studies have shown some sun sensitivity when using AHA’s and BHA’s. So use SPF afterwards. Which if you’re listening to this podcast, you are doing anyway : )The same can be said about the use of acids and retinol together. The combination of the two can lead to flaking, irritation, and redness. Mixing a matching...According to a 2009 review from Science Direct, when using AHA’s and BHA’s together the skin benefits from increased collagen production which leads to softened fine lines and wrinkles So now, let’s go over different types of products using AHA a BHA that you can incorporate Face Washes - you can find acids incorporated in a face wash. Because they don’t remain on the skin, the experience usually does not involve irritation. Washes are a great starting point. And a great ongoing thing to incorporate for mild daily exfoliation.Toners - The most common leave-on acid used as a toner is glycolic acid because it can penetrate the skin quickly and provide lasting anti aging benefits. You can use after cleansing a few times a week for a boost in exfoliating the skin as well. Serums, or just straight up acid solutions in liquid form.  You’ll see various concentrations so they can be very weak, or very strong. Try out a small amount, make sure your skin can tolerate it. Gradually increase the frequency. They are great to use a few times a week to improve skin texture, exfoliate, and stimulate collagen to soften lines and wrinkles. Moisturizers - AHA’s and BHA’s are used in moisturizers as well. Because creams are thicker and absorb more slowly, acids would irritate less even if the concentrations are higher  Now to introduce two new acids that you may not have heard of yet. These are the youngest generation of acids that are becoming quickly popular in skincare...they are called PHAs and LHAs or Poly hydroxy acid and Lipo hydroxy acid. I am sure you will hear more about them over timeOne of the most commonly used poly hydroxy acids that you will find in exfoliating serums and anti-wrinkle creams is gluconolactone. It is an antioxidant that can also protect the skin from sun damage making it a better option than using other aha’s like glycolic acid which can make the skin more sensitive to sun damage.  A 12-week clinical study tested a PHA product at 10% in vs a 13% glycolic acid product applied 2x a day. Both showed significant anti aging benefits however stinging and burning were significantly HIGHER for the Glycolic treatment group showing that PHA is milder and can still provide anti aging benefits.And what about LHA? It is a derivative of salicylic acid that you can find in creams, cleansers, toners, and spot treatments. This acid also dissolves in oil and has a slower absorption into the skin. In addition, it has a pH that is similar to that of normal skin (about 5.5). All of these properties make it mild and easily tolerated. So it is great for all skin types, including if you are sensitive. While not studied as extensively as other acids… One older study has evaluated LHA vs Benzyl Peroxide in treating acne. And LHA demonstrated comparable efficacy and was much better tolerated than Benzyl PeroxideExfoliating the skin is necessary for your skin health and normal function. Acids are a great option for exfoliation Choose AHAs when you want to address fine lines, dark spots, and sun damage. Gluycolic is a staple, but you need to build up tolerance, especially for higher concentrations. So starting with lactic acid if you are new to this is a great option. I am a big proponent to changing your skincare routine, including the acids you use because the skin gets used to products. The same way muscles get used to a certain exercise. So need to change things to reignite the system.Choose BHA or salicylic when you want to treat oily, sensitive or acne prone skin. It’s something I highly recommend before spending money on dermatologists and reaching for prescription drugsRemember to start “low and slow” with any acids to see what your skin can tolerate. Listen to your skin’s needs and concerns and choose what best works for you. If you learned something today, click any of the buttons you see around - like, comment, share, subscribe, whatever… And let me know if there are any specific topics you want me to cover. That’s all for today.